When I travel, I spend quite a bit of time thinking about where to go, and which routes to take. I consult maps, check train schedules, and I talk to friends.
Last year, I looked to one of my favorite regions in France: the south. In the south, I knew I’d have a pretty good shot at decent weather, even late in the shoulder season. I had wavered between spending time in Montpellier or Perpignan – both are in the southwest, and both seemed big enough to be interesting, yet small enough to allow a solo traveler a chance of exploring the city on foot.
I ended up picking Montpellier (which I documented in a previous post), so this year Perpignan made the agenda.
A Bit of History
Perpignan is located deep in the southwest of France, very close to both the Mediterranean Sea and the Spanish border. The city has changed hands over the centuries and was at one point the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca. The strong Catalan heritage of the city is evident in the architecture throughout the city, and many street signs are still listed in both French and Catalan.
My Arrival
I reached Perpignan by train, although the last segment from Narbonne was delayed enough that I arrived after 22h00/10:00pm. I dropped my stuff at the hotel, and I set out to find something to eat. It was Sunday night, so my hopes weren’t too high, but still I felt like taking a chance. After trying several restaurants that had just closed, I found Le Napoli, an Italian restaurant that stays open until midnight. I would highly recommend it for anyone looking for a late meal on a Sunday night. It’s on the corner of Boulevard Georges Clemenceau and Cours Lazare Escarguel.
Well fed, I walked across the street and found myself face to face with a large statue of Salvador Dali seated in a large chair (Dalí en Levitation). It is just outside the FNAC department store, in the Place de Catalogne. Dali is quoted as saying that the Perpignan train station was the center of the universe after he had a spiritual experience there. Dali’s arms are open wide, welcoming visitors to the Catalan capital. The statue is 3.6 meters wide and 2.3 meters high, and it made me feel like I had found a friendly city.
Starting Out
Perpignan’s history makes it ripe for visitors interested in exploring. There is a strong contrast between the medieval monuments and the wonderful modern atmosphere of the downtown pedestrian section. A great place to start exploring is Le Castille, the ancient gateway to the city.
Le Castille
Perpignan was once a walled city, as many French medieval cities were. Le Castille is a red brick gateway and is the one remaining gateway of the old wall. Constructed in the 14th century to keep invaders out, Le Castille was converted into a prison in the 17th century. Today, it houses the Casa Pairal Museum, focused on the North Catalan history. It is worth the climb to the top for the view over the downtown area, and the details of the Catalan history found throughout the museum are very illuminating.
L’Eglise Saint-Jacques
This church is on the Way of Saint James pilgrimage path and has an indescribable interior. I’m sure that most travelers, like myself, have experienced their fair share of churches, and while some are absolutely iconic, a lot of churches can start to blur together after a while.
However the church of Saint-Jacques in Perpignan was one that really visually struck me. Maybe it was the walk to get there – the roads wind around a bit – and I wandered lost for a while before arriving.
When I finally arrived, the church was empty except for the priest who was sitting alone in the semi-darkness. He greeted me and turned on all the interior lights. With the illumination, the church was spectacular. Was it the largest church I’ve seen? No. Most ornate? Again, no. But I would recommend a visit to anyone spending time in Perpignan who enjoys the beauty of these monuments to the history of the Catholic Church.
As I completed my visit, I chatted briefly with the priest, and remarked on how beautiful I found the church. In a modest way, he said the real beauty in Perpignan was the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, and I agree, it’s magnificent in its own way. However this church will hold a special place in my memories of Perpignan. Walking outside with me, the priest stopped to talk with several homeless people who were crashing on the front steps. Obviously regulars, they greeted each other and talked about normal, everyday events. There was something very comfortable and homey about the encounter, which only made this visit even more enjoyable.
L’Escalier Molière and the Majorcan Wall
Making my way back downtown through the old-town curvy streets, I came upon a group of police in riot gear apparently getting ready for something to go down. My route ran through them to the other side, I asked if it was alright if I went through. They eyed me and asked me to empty my pockets before allowing me to pass. I’m not sure what they were there for, but fortunately I didn’t seem like a high risk. This type of encounter with groups of police happened twice during my stay in Perpignan, but I didn’t ever hear of anything to explain it. Curious if anyone else knows about this?
On the far side of the police squad I arrived at l’escalier Molière, which leads down to la Place Molière. Just to the right of the stairs is a remnant of the old Majorcan wall, a reminder of the city’s history.
Built in the 1300s using rocks from the Tet river, this remaining section of the wall was spared in 1904 from demolition because it helped hold up the base of Saint Jacques hill. More recently, it has been used as a base for modern houses.
Bir-Hakeim Square and Promenade des Platanes
On the other side of la Place Molière is a park, the Square Bir-Hakeim and the Promenade des Platanes. In a southern city like Perpignan, it’s always a welcome discovery to find a shady area to relax, get a cold drink, and watch the world walk by. The temperatures were quite warm, and I asked a local if this was normal. Yes, the city typically is warm year-round, although they do get strong winds that blow through.
In the Square Bir-Makeim, the monument honoring those Perpignanais that fought for France in World War I – “la guerre sans fin”. Further down the Promenade des Platanes is a fountain, providing a little freshness to the warm air.
The Downtown Pedestrian Zone and Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Through the downtown area is a marvelous winding green-space, well-tended, with la Baissée – a canal routed from the Têt river – running down the middle. Multiple bridges cross the canal throughout the downtown area of the city.
The pedestrian downtown area is polished and comfortable, with multiple squares for food, beverages, and people-watching.
In the downtown area is the Hotel de Ville, located in the Place de la Loge.
A couple of blocks from the Hotel de Ville is the Saint-Jean Cathedral. Located in the place Léon Gambetta, the cathedral dates to the 14th century, when King Sancho of Majorca began its construction. It replaced an earlier cathedral, the cathedral of Elna, becoming the first seat of the Bishop of Elne, and from 1602 was the seat of the Bishop of Perpignan-Elne. The style is Catalan Gothic and is another example of the Majorcan influence on the city’s architecture. The western façade was never finished, and when restorations were made in the 19th and 20th centuries, the gothic window of the façade was rebuilt in the style of the rest of the cathedral. Prior to that, it was a simple rectangular opening. The façade also has a clock tower and portico that date from the 18th century.
The architecture of the houses in Perpignan show the beautiful Catalan style.
Palais des Rois de Majorque
Even with all the wonderful things worth seeing when visiting Perpignan, no visitor should pass by the city without spending some time in the Majorcan Kings’ Palace, or Palais des Rois de Majorque. The Palace represents one of the most remarkable examples of the medieval civil and military architecture in Southern France. Construction began around 1276 and finished around 1300. It was built as a residence for the court of Jacques II of Mallorca.
The structure consists of high walls around an inner courtyard. The walls were surrounded by a moat and has a portico tower. In the large central courtyard, the throne room faced the chapel which dominated the public space, and the royal apartments. Multiple shops and businesses were located inside the walled castle, including a bakery, a forge, and a gunpowder factory. Outside the main courtyard was a large garden used for a variety of plants and trees, as well as for keeping exotic animals. The garden is still planted today, although not in the grand style of the original royal court.
The royal château of Perpignan is a perfect example of European fortress palaces in Europe from the end of the middle ages. It predates the Pope’s Palace in Avignon by about a half a century. In the middle of the 15th century, the château served as an arsenal, and then as a firehouse until 1958, when a door and gently rising staircase were cut in the walls to allow the public access to the palace.
An archeological dig in 2013 exposed the moat, ramparts, gate, and drawbridge.
The tall tower is accessible and offers a grand view of the city of Perpignan. It’s well worth the climb to the top, including the last internal winding staircase.
Wind Up
Perpignan is a wonderful city blanketed in the warmth of the southern France region. It may not have the draw for tourists that other some other southern cities have, but it has its own brand of southern hospitality and charm. It is absolutely worth a trip down south to experience it firsthand.
We had a short stop in Perpignan shortly after you were there and it certainly has a lot to offer. Unusually, we had decided on a drive across the south so had little time to really immerse ourselves but loved the whole area.
Hi Steve, I agree with you, the whole area has a lot to offer. So much history, so much to explore. Thanks for the comment!